The collapse of the Rana plaza in Dhaka, Bangladesh was for many Americans, a wake up call. As the death toll kept rising and this disaster quickly became the worst in the history of the garment industry. After weeks of rescue crews working around the clock, the final count was 1,133, with more than 2,500 people injured, and 800 children orphaned.
Garment workers in Bangladesh. Photo Credit: The New York Times
And what were the people in that building doing? Making our clothes. 5000 garment workers, in a crumbling building, with illegal upper levels, making a around $38 a month, were sewing clothing for stores around a the world. Among the rubble were clothes for Walmart, Children’s Place, and many other major retailers.
The traditional supply chain for clothing has too many links to count. Distributors, contractors, suppliers; it’s impossible to keep track. The lack of transparency in the global fashion industry makes it impossible for consumers, and even brands, to know exactly where their products are being made and, more importantly, under what conditions. When asked about where their clothes come from, many retailers have no idea besides a general knowledge of the country of origin. Orders are often contracted to other factories, regulations are lax, payment to the workers (mainly underage, uneducated women) small.
After the collapse, there was an uproar of disgust with the clothing manufacturing industry. UK and EU brands were quick to organize an initiative to change the way clothes are manufactured and signed a legally binding agreement to change the system. The minimum wage for garment workers in Bangladesh increased by 77% and structural inspections of factories is now required, with repairs paid for by the brands themselves. Hopefully, changes will continue to be made.
Garment workers in a Bangladesh factory. Photo Credit: Reuters
There were a few items made in the Rana Plaza destined for the US market, but a lot of clothing made in Bangladesh is shipped here. US retailers, headed by Walmart, JC Penny, the Gap and others, did not sign the labor agreement, instead creating their own, non-legally binding plan. Their accord is much less strict than its EU counterpart, and does not require companies to pay for improvements in factories. They’ve gotten a lot of flack from labor groups for not taking corporate social responsibility.
For the people of Bangladesh, despite some improvements, little has changed. For rural women, with very few other opportunities, factory jobs are still plentiful. Many of the injured workers and families of deceased workers have not received just compensation, although companies like Primark and Loblaw’s have paid a considerable amount to workers. The disaster last year made people wake up to the fact that on the other side of the world, people are so desperate for work that they will work in a building with visible cracks in the pillars. The aftermath of the disaster has very, very slowly changed the trajectory of the fashion industry.
So what can we do?
Try as much as you can to purchase ethically made, sustainable clothing. It’s harder than it should be, but not impossible. We’ll be posting resources for fair trade, transparent, socially responsible companies later in the week, keep your eyes open.
For even more info, read Fault Line’s investigation into Bangladesh factories, and whether stores like Old Navy, Walmart and the Gap know what exactly is going on at the factories where their clothes are made.
To learn more about the current status of the accord, compensation to workers and what else is being done, see this article at The Guardian.
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